When a restaurant opens in a venue designated for tourists, austere food writers tend to expect less of its culinary offerings.
No matter how much it invests in its kitchen — financially or through labour — the food is often perceived to cater to out-of-town visitors.
But what’s wrong with that? Is it fair to say that the travellers’ taste buds aren’t on par with the locals’?
As a matter of fact, no it’s not.
This week’s subject of review, the Crystal Grill House, was built to showcase world-class gastronomy through local heritage and narrative. Obviously, it doesn’t matter who its clientele is, culinary perfection seems to always be the main focus.
Opening a few weeks ago at the busy Asiatique open-air mall, the grill house is a gastronomic sequence following…