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Saturday, May 4, 2024

Banking on the bygone era

A very casual dinner at Aksorn last week was one of the most meaningful meals in my career as a food critic.

Gastronomically, it presented me with an opportunity to savour some of the most antiquated Thai recipes carefully crafted by a world-celebrated Michelin-starred chef.

Intellectually, it’s an astounding revelation of bygone kitchen creativity and finesse. And, romantically, it’s a heartfelt realisation of how precious it is to be able to connect with our past.

The newest brainchild of Australian-born Thai cuisine master David Thompson, Aksorn is truly a one-of-a-kind restaurant.

The 40-seater opened a month ago on the top floor of an old shophouse, once a home of the first store founded in 1950 by the Central Retail Group family. The store’s main trade at that time was books and magazines. Thus its bookish…

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