Two Middle Eastern tourists looked excited as they held up a phone to an exquisitely carved arabesque in Nasrid Palace at the Alhambra. No, they’re not taking photos. They’re comparing the Arabic text on their screen with the 8th century stone calligraphy. I hear them mumble in Arabic — here’s the translation:
“I am a crown on the front of my door, in me is the West envious of the East.”
Trailing a few steps behind, I approach them. “Excuse me, is that a Koranic verse?”
“No,” the two men turn and reply, “it’s a poem.” Then, they point to an inscription nearby on the first panel. “This one, this is from the Koran.” Again, they recite it, this time specifically to me — “wala ghabila illa Allah — there is no victor except Allah”.
Look around and you will see that same verse inscribed hundreds of times, over and over, horizontally and vertically, either as principle…
