One way, admittedly the laziest, to learn history is to just trip over it. Which inevitably happens in Thailand, and not only among the capital’s superstar temples and postcard palaces.
Any “accidental” history tour of Siam-Thailand begins with the great mother river, the Chao Phraya that flows south through the heart of the country. Trace it, probably via a finger on the map rather than actually sailing it, as it flows to the Gulf of Thailand (formerly the Gulf of Siam) and you run into four successive royal capitals and a trio of gilded dynasties.
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