A timely repast

Speaking of palatability, there’s no reason why Time Kaan does not deserve an accolade.

While the two-month-old Thai restaurant may need more time to learn, endure and mature, its future is promising.

Nonetheless, before arriving at Time Kaan I had qualms about trusting a fresh-faced aspirant trying to “revive bygone recipes”, let alone expecting to like the results.

Bangkok currently has several would-be saviours of age-old Thai cuisine. Only a few of them, however, are genuinely authoritative. Among the rest, some are overconfident.

I doubted Time Kaan was one of the latter but still had qualms.

During my dinner visit there last week, it was the subtlety of flavours, revealed in the dishes one after another as a part of a well-balanced tasting menu, that turned me into a profound admirer.

All other points were just…