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Saturday, May 4, 2024

Undemanding, yet refined

Last week was my second visit to Kintsugi since the progressive kaiseki restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Jeff Ramsey opened in 2019 at the Athenee Bangkok.

Kintsugi’s Michelin-starred chef-patron Jeff Ramsey.

On that Saturday evening, the 60-seat establishment was impressively energised by a casual crowd of international diners.

As a loud tête-à-tête was heard from one of the private rooms, young couples and groups of friends were spotted at the sushi bar while families were occupying the sofa booths. It’s just then that I began to realise the easygoing mood chef Ramsey had talked about.

He once said that at Kintsugi there should be no stiff rules, and, ideally, the menu is to be customised for the guests according to the best available produce of the day.

Adopting the undemanding omakase (“I leave it up to you”) practice, Kintsugi at the…

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