Method
Step 1
Soak the rice noodles in room temperature water for 15 minutes. Strain and discard the water. Set aside.
Step 2
Meanwhile, put the chillies in a saucepan and add enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat and soak the chillies for 15 minutes. Drain, discarding the water, and when cool enough to handle, remove and discard the seeds and stringy membranes from the chillies. Slice the chillies.
Step 3
Using a mortar and pestle (or a food processor), pound and grind (or process) the chillies, shallots and garlic to a coarse paste.
Step 4
In a large wok or frying pan over medium-low heat, add the vegetable oil and the chilli paste. Fry, stirring frequently, until fragrant, around 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, tamarind pulp, water, sugar, soy sauce and salt. Increase the heat to medium and simmer until bubbling and amalgamated, around 2 or 3 minutes. Remove half of the sauce and set aside.
Step 5
Add half the noodles to the wok, increase the heat to medium-high and fry, stirring constantly, until the noodles have absorbed all the liquid and are dry in consistency (around 5 minutes). Taste, adjusting seasonings if necessary; the noodles should taste equal parts sweet and tart, with balanced background flavours of salty, rich and spicy. Remove, set aside, and repeat with the remaining noodles and sauce.
Step 6
Transfer the noodles to four plates, garnish each with the Chinese chives and a pinch each of chilli powder and sugar, if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Note
Sweet or dark soy sauce lends the dish a pleasantly bitter, molasses-like flavour that you won’t find in your more common light soy sauce.
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