Forget Unagi: Bangkok’s ‘Dukedon’ champions Thai catfish over Japanese eels

In an unusual foodie location in Bangkok’s Samsen Nai area is a down-to-earth spot called Dukedon that takes pla duk (Thai catfish) away from the usual somtam stalls and into the spotlight. 

A trio of chefs – Prutkumpond “Sarm” Salak, Tachatam “Ton” Saekow, and Kittinan “Kit” Saratantiphong – specialize in both shinkeijime and ikejime (Japanese methods for preserving fresh umami flavors by cutting blood vessels and paralyzing the fish). The fish are then dry-aged for four to five days before being served. 

The highlight is duke don (THB219), a bowl of rice served with freshly-grilled catfish finished with kabayaki-style glaze lending a subtly sweet coating to the crispy skins. Equally delightful was pla mor don (THB249), a twist on Thai climbing perch fish where chefs remove all those annoying bones and torch it to perfection.