The last time I publicly expressed my gratitude to a Bangkok restaurateur who brought culinary brilliance to the city was in 2011.
In fact, it was the first and only time in my two-decade career as a food writer. The article was about Gaggan, a few years before it became world-famous.
However, the same urge to share my heartfelt appreciation emerged again during my dinner at North last week.
North is a new restaurant on Sukhumvit 33 that opened in December.
The first of its kind in Bangkok, it offers diners authentic flavours of northern Thai cuisine — long perceived as lacklustre — in a Western-style fine dining manner.
The restaurant is the brainchild of a new-faced proprietor, who’s a keen foodie and descendant of an upper-class family from Lampang province.
Pumpkin curry with freshwater sea bass and…