If you’ve been to Thailand, the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Phuket is probably parties, pints and Patong Beach. A famous knees-up spot that provides a gateway to southern Thailand – and all the beautiful islands it has to offer – Phuket, on the surface, doesn’t ooze luxury.
Away from the debauchery, however, Thailand’s largest island (Phuket is comfortably the country’s most famous holiday destination) is, in fact, home to a number of luxurious hideaways – because where tourists go, five-star brands will inevitably follow. Big names include Rosewood, Banyan Tree and Anantara, alongside a host of boutique boltholes, but when I was planning my itinerary – Phuket being the second stop on a trip that spanned Bangkok to Koh Samui – there was only one luxury hotel that stood out: Como Point Yamu.
Named one of the best hotels in Thailand by Conde Nast Traveller, the five-star Como hotel is one of very few situated on Phuket’s eastern Cape Yamu, boasting panoramic views across the island-dotted Phang Nga Bay and offering the best sunrise spots on the island. It has a starry reputation, and the hotel’s location feeds into its enduring appeal (it opened in 2013 as Como’s third island resort), but it doesn’t take long to figure out that the thoughtful design, authentic restaurants and impeccable service are also what draw tourists year after year.
Como Point Yamu is not so much a hotel as an open-air design concept. As we approach the sprawling 32-acre estate – part of a larger gated complex that’s home to a plethora of island mansions – we’re greeted into a concrete pillared, open-air reception flanked with pristine white sofas, lobster cages suspended from the ceiling and a mini infinity pool. It is the central hub of the property, which feeds corridors, stairways, paths and roads to other suites on the clifftop complex.
It also intentionally gives guests the first taste of what’s in store at this design-led hotel – a project of renowned Italian designer Paola Navone. Featuring a dazzling palette of bright aquamarines and burnt oranges and Thai artisanal techniques, such as traditional wood tiling, Navone aimed to reflect the sea, Thailand’s Buddhist beliefs and the colourful influence of Phuket’s Peranakan culture.
There are 79 suites divided between the east and west wings, ensuring all guests at Como Point Yamu wake up to views of the turquoise waters beyond. Inside my king suite, the clean white space is contrasted with bright blue accents – a theme that runs throughout the hotel – while the floor-to-ceiling windows lead to a serene balcony where you could easily while away an afternoon island spotting. The huge, royal-blue tiled bathroom, however, is rather uniquely my favourite aspect. A hot tub-style bath with suspended pendant bulbs takes centre stage, while a walk-in shower is hidden behind closed doors and a double vanity encourages you to unpack and make the most of the space. Not a fan of the lighting? Don’t worry, there are about five different settings to choose from…
Need a little more space? Como Point Yamu is also home to private villas that have hosted Thai and Malaysian royalty and can sleep up to 11 people. 50 per cent of the residences come with pools (just remember they aren’t always heated so it can make for a refreshing dip), while those preferring a unique beach club experience on the cliffs should head to the main pool accessed by the grandest hotel corridor I’ve ever seen – think wooden panels below foot that are paralleled by small, shimmering leats lit by skylights above. It opens out onto the 100m swimming pool, with an infinity backdrop at one end and a shallow family-friendly spot at the other. It’s here that the aforementioned views come to life, as sunbathers and sundowners can enjoy the 360° panoramic views Como Point Yamu is famous for.
It’s also at this end of the hotel that you’ll find two restaurants: La Sirena and Nahmyaa. Contrasting cuisines – the former is Italian while the latter serves authentic southern Thai delicacies – mean guests can opt for classic Caesar salads, wagyu burgers, pizzas served poolside or at La Sirena, before tucking into a Tom Yang soup, Massaman curry with braised Australian lamb shank, Phuket wok-fried yellow noodles with seafood, and Thai crab omelette come evening when Nahmyaa opens.
It’s truly the star of the show when it comes to food here, perfectly paired with Chang lager or Monsoon Valley Thai wine. If you’re stuck for what to order – or are slightly intimidated by the heat of notoriously spicy southern Thai food – ask one of the helpful waiters to order for you. For us, they selected the Phad Pak Meang (wok-fried melinjo leaves with egg and glass noodles), which was, perhaps unsurprisingly, delicious.
Next door at La Sirena, a huge breakfast buffet is laid out every morning with staff on hand to wood-fire your bread or whip up whatever type of eggs you desire. As well as being an homage to her native cuisine, Navone designed the space to reflect the UNESCO-protected waters of the bay beyond, featuring pearly white plates complemented by rattan lights that evoke the allure of ocean reefs. Highlights from the breakfast menu include Thai style bacon and eggs served with sweetcorn, sticky rice and chilli jam, as well as coconut waffles accompanied by passion fruit jam harvested from the trees in the courtyard adjacent to the restaurant.
A stay at Como Point Yamu would not be complete without a trip to the spa. Given the brand is famous for its signature wellbeing offering, Como Shambhala, I was expecting big things – and the hotel delivered. Offering a roster of classes, from yoga and Pilates to stretching (I’d highly recommend the latter, especially after a 16-hour flight from Heathrow), the spa retreat feels a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the restaurants below.
Facilities include seven treatment rooms, a yoga studio and two jacuzzis, as well as an expansive double treatment room that faces the bay and provides the perfect backdrop to my traditional Thai sunset massage. Treatments unique to Como Point Yamu include the Lanna Heritage Full Body Compress, utilising traditional Thai herbs and spices in warmed boluses, a Thai Abdominal Chi Massage to promote better digestion, and a Lanna Heritage Body Scrub utilising lemongrass and galangal to stimulate circulation and nourish tired skin.
So, what does Como Point Yamu have that other luxury Phuket hotels don’t? Location, location, location. It was a bold move to set up shop on one of the most remote capes on the island (there are no other shops, hotels or restaurants within walking distance), but it is one that has certainly paid off – and my repetitive mention of those views should be enough to tell you so. Its USP is simple: come here for serene luxury and go elsewhere for the party.
Sitting on the sun-baked balcony spotting the southern islands we would soon travel to from Phuket, I was torn between feeling excited for the next leg of our trip and sad to leave the relaxed nature of Como Point Yamu behind. And, as any seasoned hotelier will tell you, that’s a pretty good conundrum for your guests to have…
From £180 per night, visit comohotels.com.
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