In an unusual foodie location in Bangkok’s Samsen Nai area is a down-to-earth spot called Dukedon that takes pla duk (Thai catfish) away from the usual somtam stalls and into the spotlight.
A trio of chefs – Prutkumpond “Sarm” Salak, Tachatam “Ton” Saekow, and Kittinan “Kit” Saratantiphong – specialize in both shinkeijime and ikejime (Japanese methods for preserving fresh umami flavors by cutting blood vessels and paralyzing the fish). The fish are then dry-aged for four to five days before being served.
The highlight is duke don (THB219), a bowl of rice served with freshly-grilled catfish finished with kabayaki-style glaze lending a subtly sweet coating to the crispy skins. Equally delightful was pla mor don (THB249), a twist on Thai climbing perch fish where chefs remove all those annoying bones and torch it to perfection.
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