Phuket has its nightlife and Pha Ngan has its full-moon parties, while Krabi has the coastline and Koh Tao has dominion over Thailand’s scuba scene. Samui stands apart by offering a slice of it all, with strings of serene, white sandy beaches and blissful indulgence from a collection of the country’s swankiest resorts, combined with no shortage of amusement or adventure.
Thailand is picking up where it left off after a lengthy pandemic shutdown to international tourism, returning as one of the most favored of far-flung destinations for American tourists. Koh Samui, part of the Surat Thani province, is an island found in the Gulf of Thailand about halfway down the country’s thin central land strip. It caters to tourists, and as such, rather than mourning the sense of calm their absence provided, it’s celebrating their return in grand style, eager to once again offer its signature, friendly hospitality.
Figures from January showed rebounding tourism levels of approximately 200,000 visitors per month. This is compared to a population of less than 70,000 residents, a large share of whom are involved in the travel sphere or one of its adjacent offshoots, including hotels, restaurants, bars, transportation, tour operators, and more.
While much has changed on the island in recent years, much has stayed the same, including just how easy it is to see why Koh Samui has a reputation as one of the world’s finest island escapes.
The Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui
Jake Emen
STAY
Banyan Tree Samui has 88 villas extending up a hillside abutting a small bay along the eastern sunrise coast. Villas have expansive private decks outfitted with pools large enough to swim in, as opposed to “plunge,” as the name more typically implies. Decor includes Thai motifs such as dark woods flecked with gold, pitched roofs, and thatch furnishings, with rainfall showers opening to the outdoors. The property’s spa features The Rainforest, a multi-station hydrotherapy enclave available for private usage.
The Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui occupies the northwestern corner of the island, in prime sunset position. The 62-villa property has more than 850 coconut trees growing across its vibrant, hilly grounds. Villas showcase plunge pools and freestanding stone bathtubs with ocean views, while the resort’s showpiece is a 50-meter, oceanfront infinity pool. Beaches on Koh Samui are all open to the public, but the Four Seasons beachfront is secluded enough to essentially be private.
Six Senses Samui calls the island’s northernmost tip home. The all-villa property has 67 accommodations designed to blend into the natural surroundings and enclosed within bamboo fencing. Room design follows a natural and minimalist aesthetic, with wooden floors and furnishings, along with outdoor showers, and private pools. The hotel boasts an organic farm and two large, lounge pools, with a pristine slice of beach in a quiet cove.
EXPLORE
The golden Big Buddha greets most approaching visitors from their airplane windows as they make their descents, and the 39-foot-tall statue, found at Wat Phra Yai, is a leading attraction on the island. Wat Plai Laem, a temple compound with a series of large, ornate statues, as well as a temple built as if it’s floating on giant lotus flowers, is a short walk away, while the less visited Wat Teepangkorn is found on the island’s highest point and offers a scenic vantage point.
The Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui occupies the northwestern corner of the island, in prime sunset position
Koh Samui I
Common activities on Koh Samui include ATV or jet ski tours, snorkeling, and water sports. There’s no shortage of waterfalls to consider visiting, such as Na Muang—a complex including Na Muang One and Two, Tang Rua, or the Secret Falls, Khun Si, and Khao Yai. Try your hands— and elbows, knees, and feet—at Muay Thai, with a litany of gyms across the island. Many hotels offer introductory training sessions under the tutelage of professional fighters, and some even have full-sized training rings. If watching is preferable to participating, Koh Samui has several major Muay Thai stadiums, including Phetch Buncha Boxing Stadium and Samui International Boxing Stadium. Fights are hosted at one of the two at least three or four times per week.
EAT & DRINK
Fisherman’s Village and its weaving walking streets are home to a huge collection of shops and restaurants, as well as the most well-known night market on the island. Koh Samui has numerous other night markets; for a more low-key, locals-centric choice, though with much of the same food vendors and fare, visit the Chaweng Walking Market. Coco Tam’s is renowned for its toes-in-the-sand service and beanbag chair seating, a multi-floor bar facing the ocean, and elaborate twice-nightly fire performances. For a different beachside experience, grab an oceanfront table or lounge chairs at Salt Society in Chaweng Beach for fresh seafood and Mediterranean flavors.
Kawin’s Kitchen in Lamai is a popular open-air dining venue with a mix of classic Thai dishes and house specialties alongside a vegan menu. Dishes are available on a one-to-five spice scale; be forewarned, notorious “Thai spicy” only rates as four. While buckets of beer remain more common than craft cocktails, the latter is gaining traction. Visit Rum Vault for the island’s largest collection of rum, about 150 bottles, and educational tasting flights.
Fisherman’s Village and its weaving walking streets are home to a huge collection of shops and restaurants, as well as the most well-known night market on the island.
Jake Emen
While a great meal can often be found on the cheap, fine-dining is available as well. Consider Dining on the Rocks, perched on a deck over the sea and serving thematic set menus with Western cuisine, or Sa’Nga, serving Thai flavors in tapas format with modern flair. Pak Thai at the Ritz-Carlton showcases spice-centric southern Thai fare with authentic dishes not often found at tourist-friendly restaurants, while the clifftop Saffron offers Thai tasting menus optionally paired with beverages including Thai wines, or cocktails made with the staple flavors of Thai cuisine.
The writer was hosted by Banyan Tree Samui, Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, and Six Senses Samui.
